acne clear skin summer

You know that awesome feeling when your skin clears up beautifully while on a summer vacation? Then, slowly but surely, it starts breaking out again once you get back?

It's incredibly frustrating!

Just when you thought you were making progress, it goes flying out the window.

So what can you do to help your skin stay clear after the summer?

To understand how, let's first go over a few reasons why your skin magically clears up during summer.

WHY YOUR SKIN CLEARS UP DURING SUMMER HOLIDAYS

There are five good reasons that I'm aware of:

1. You are much less stressed

Oh, the stress.

It affects our skin much more than we think. When we get stressed, stress hormone cortisol gets released and many of us are under constant daily stress. This, unfortunately, poses a big problem for your health and your skin.

Here are a few reasons why:

  • Cortisol increases glucose levels, releasing quick energy for you. You will then release insulin, which spikes your androgen hormones, after which they convert into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) in your skin and clog your pores
  • Cortisol increases blood pressure and may increase inflammation
  • Elevated cortisol levels for prolonged periods can increase insulin resistance. This is a state where your cells aren’t responding well to insulin. Normally, insulin tells them to take up glucose (sugar) after you eat carbs. Insulin resistance makes your pancreas pump out more insulin to compensate, and this further increases your androgens, which clogs your pores
  • Pregnenolone steal” – In addition to cortisol, the adrenals also release other hormones, including pregnenolone. It is a “mother hormone” because all sex hormones are made from it. Perpetual stress means that the building blocks of cortisol can get depleted. Unfortunately, these same building blocks are also used to make estrogen and progesterone, causing that “pregnenolone steal”, so you can become deficient. You need enough progesterone to have clear skin because it diminishes the action of DHT, which clogs your pores and leads to acne. Furthermore, cortisol also blocks progesterone receptors, meaning that the little progesterone you have can’t perform its function!

In plain English, while on a summer vacation, you are mostly eating whatever you want and not worrying about your skin, which actually makes it much better than when you are on a strict diet and under massive everyday stress.

2. You are getting enough vitamin D from sunshine

The precious vitamin D3 is a magical acne-clearing vitamin.

And so many of us are deficient!

Vitamin D is immensely important for our overall health. In fact, most cells in our body have a vitamin D receptor, primed to receive signals from the vitamin.

Your body makes the vitamin D it needs during 20-30 min in the sun (depending on the latitude, more if you are dark-skinned) when exposing a large area of your body WITHOUT sunscreen. No need to fret the sunscreen though, especially on a very small area like your face. I try to expose larger areas of my body without much sunscreen for an adequate amount of time (no burning sensations!).

Here are some of the reasons why vitamin D works so good for acne:

  • Regulates blood sugar and insulin resistance. This is GREAT for the skin because it means no spikes in androgens that cause acne
  • Reduces inflammation, reducing swollen, red acne
  • Regulates keratinization process of the epidermal cells, which means they are less likely to clog up your pores (all acne starts with a clogged pore)
  • Improves mood and eases depression
  • Improves sleep (hugely important for healing your skin)

3. UV light is immunosupressive

Exposure to UV light from the sun suppresses immune response in the skin (source). This includes the immune cells in acne, which create that familiar redness. When you have gotten some sun exposure, your acne will likely be less red and swollen. Likely both vitamin D and nitric oxide production mediate this process.

Essentially, adequate sunshine exposure is a damper on those inflammation levels in your skin, also halting a lot of the pore-clogging processes in their tracks!

4. You make plenty of nitric oxide from sun exposure

Nitric oxide is produced by most of our cells, and its production is boosted by exposure to sunlight (mainly UVA rays). It has become somewhat of a wonder skincare molecule in the recent years, and for good reasons!

Nitric oxide plays some key roles in skin health:

  1. Cell regeneration – nitric oxide can help rejuvenate the skin and improve wrinkles and fine lines
  2. Wound healing – tissue regeneration is improved when nitric oxide production ramps up during sun exposure. “Nitric oxide (NO), the endogenous regulator of inflammation and an antibacterial agent with no demonstrated resistance, has become an attractive candidate for wound healing therapy.” – Advanced Healthcare Materials
  3. Immune response in the skin – Nitric oxide helps control the replication of microbial pathogens and hence keeps skin microbiome balance in check. “Nitric oxide (NO) is a bioactive gas that has multiple roles in innate and adaptive immune responses. It is needed for host defense against pathogens and for immune regulation.” – Macrophages
  4. Dermal vasodilation – Nitric oxide production on the skin improves blood, nutrient, and oxygen availability to skin cells. One sign of depleted nitric oxide production is in fact premature aging skin.

The production of nitric oxide from sunlight is dependent on a few factors, like nitrite stores the body. Nitrite stores are in turn affected by age, oral health habits, and whether you use antibacterial mouthwash or fluoride toothpaste. Clinical trials have shown that antibacterial mouthwash can deplete oral nitrate-reducing bacteria, and decrease systemic nitric oxide bioavailability.

This is bad, because it impairs our ability to have good production of nitric oxide when we hit the sun. Make sure to choose a fluoride-free toothpaste and skip the mouthwash!

5. You are getting more magnesium

Does your vacation include swimming in the ocean?

If yes, chances are much better your acne will improve, and one simple reason is magnesium (+ unique microorganisms found in the ocean).

The ocean is a rich source of magnesium (in the form of magnesium chloride), which our skin soaks up while you swim (or just float around). Magnesium salts are known to improve the skin hydration and skin barrier function and reduce inflammation, which is why they are also helpful for inflammatory skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.

Magnesium is involved in over 300 biochemical reactions in the body, including building enzymes that manage DNA repair and replication. Without it, the skin is more exposed to the consequences of harmful free radical damage and inflammation that lead to skin damage, wrinkles and clog pores.

Magnesium also helps to support your adrenal system. Your kidneys release magnesium when cortisol gets released, suppressing the effects of the hormone. Therefore, by increasing your magnesium intake, your body is better able to manage anxiety and stress (and cortisol levels), helping you clear up your skin.

But aren't we getting enough magnesium through a healthy diet year round?

In short, no.

Nearly 80% of the population is actually deficient in magnesium. The reason is simple: There is very little left of it in our soils, so plants and animals don't get enough (including us who eat them).

One last point: If you are spending quite a lot of time in the sea, it washes away the sebum (skin's natural oils). This is great if your skin is more on the oily side because it removes the excess sebum, which is prone to oxidation and clogging your pores!

In my experience, it is truly the combination of ocean (with its magnesium and unique composition of microorganisms) and sunshine that improves the skin so much, one doesn't go without the other. For you, even one of these factors might be enough to keep the skin clear.

WHY YOUR SKIN BREAKS OUT AGAIN AFTER THE SUMMER (ESPECIALLY DURING WINTER)

Ok, so now you are all packed up, batteries recharged, ready to go back. What's better, your skin is doing awesome.

Or is it?

The depletion of antioxidants = more clogged pores

Sadly, the excessive sun exposure also depletes antioxidants in your skin because it is a source of oxidative damage, which antioxidants quench. This is the reason why you might be breaking out already during summer. The antioxidants in question are mainly vitamin C and E, so it's a good idea to have a good source of them from our diet.

Antioxidants are molecules capable of donating an electron to a free radical without themselves becoming free radicals, but this action also inactivates them. Without enough antioxidants, your skin is more prone to oxidative damage (free radicals). Some of the common sources are UV radiation and pollution. No antioxidants mean your skin can’t prevent squalene (a component of sebum) from oxidizing, and this clogs your pores at the end of the summer!

Furthermore, your skin might be a bit dehydrated, which weakens the skin barrier and slows down the skin's natural exfoliation process (desquamation).

We are spending most of our time inside, with disrupted circadian rythms (and melatonin production)

Firstly, most people live in a very drying indoors environments (air conditioning turned up way too high!). This disrupts the skin barrier, also disrupting the natural exfoliation process (hello clogged pores!)

Secondly, we are way more exposed to blue light coming from screens/TVs in the winter vs summer which can affect skin health because it affects our sleep, circadian rhythm, leptin signalling and ultimately other hormones as well (which then affect our skin).

Natural sunlight positively affects every single cell and organ in the body. In the summer, we’re naturally drawn to being outside more which is why we “feel better” as the power of the sun is just unbelievably so underrated. It isn’t just about vitamin D, the sun has many positive effects on our skin in other ways as well (lowering inflammation, reducing hyperkeratinization which can lead to clogged pores, etc, as mentioned above).

Not getting enough sunlight (especially first thing in the morning) and too much blue light will disrupt the circadian rythm, which disrupts melatonin production and signaling. If vitamin D is the hormone of spring and summer, melatonin is the balancing hormone of winter!

Overindulgence during the holidays

When you add to that all the holiday treats and stress, not tolerating carbs as well as during the sunny vacation (we have poorer insulin sensitivity in the darker months), inflammation levels go up, and those clogged pores turn into painful, cystic acne!

MY TOP TIPS TO HELP YOUR SKIN STAY CLEAR IN THE FALL AND WINTER

1. Get outside (especially first thing in the morning)

Get your daily dose of sunshine whenever you can, mostly for establishing a good circadian rhythm (because we need at least UV index of 3 to make vitamin D by exposure to UVB rays). This will positively impact your overall hormonal balance and health.

A good circadian rhythm will also help you to create enough melatonin. Every day, make sure  to expose your eyes to morning sunlight before you look at the screens, which will signify to your brain to start producing enough serotonin. As the day goes on, serotonin turns into melatonin. By nighttime, you have enough of it in your system to fall asleep and have good quality sleep (unless disrupted by excessive blue light exposure through screens).

Note that to trigger this beneficial response in your brain, you have to be OUTSIDE, without sunglasses, windows, etc. Even for just a few minutes if it's super cold!

Morning sunlight also suports liver/bile functions, calming the nervous system and balancing blood sugar levels which will leave your skin looking all glowy and “full of life”!

2. Try to get in bed on time

Quality sleep is when your body heals itself and your organs (and skin!) “repair themselves”. Winter is actually a fantastic time to up that melatonin production (incredible anti-oxidant and overall a very important hormone) which will help to beautifully lower those inflammation levels!

3. Make sure you are getting enough protein (+ fat soluble vitamins)

Bioavailable protein and healthy fats provide building blocks for your hormones, cell membranes, and help to lubricate your skin from the inside. This will keep your skin healthy, clear and moisturized! Getting enough protein (ideally from animal sources) ensures you have enough building blocks to create collagen, elastin, Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and other proteins in your skin that help to keep it plump and moisturized.

Ideally, we would get 0.8-1g of bioavailable protein per pound of ideal body weight. Roughly speaking, try to aim for about 100g of protein daily, getting 30g or more for breakfast to start your day with balanced blood sugar! For a lot of my clients, eggs + a healthy carb like fruit is a simple breakfast that works great, balancing your blood sugar and keeping you satiated until lunch.

4. Incorporate more nourishing foods

Once you come back from your vacation, during which you indulged in ice cream, doughnuts, pastries of all kinds, pizza…Need I continue? I know I do it!

So we think we can continue on this path, but that's mostly not true. This is largely because we don't have sufficient sunshine exposure anymore to keep the inflammation in the skin barrier in check. I encourage you to help your skin heal through proper nutrition.

Unless it really stresses you out (for me, eating healthy makes me happy), stick to at least 2 weeks of eating mostly whole foods that you prepare yourself. I recommend focusing on healthy fats and high-quality protein, as they will support skin healing from the inside, also making the skin more moisturized and plump.

5. Find yummy alternatives to the sugary holiday treats

I am not the one to severely restrict traditional sugary desserts. If you have first consumed a protein rich meal, and then eat something sweet, your blood sugar won't spike as much as if you would to eat that sugary treat on its own.

Still, it all can quickly become too much.

Try to find some alternatives you enjoy, like seasonal fruit (I love stewed apples with cinnamon!). Getting enough protein first will ensure you don’t get as much sugar cravings, so start with focusing on getting that protein in!

6. Layer some moisture under your moisturizer/oil

After summer, your skin is likely to be dehydrated, regardless of its type (oily, normal, combination, or dry). Dehydrated simply means the skin lacks water, which stimulates oil production as your skin tries to protect the remaining water from evaporating (your skin's oils are excellent for this).

Dehydrated skin also doesn't function optimally. Various important processes, like desquamation (skin's natural exfoliation process), slow down, and your pores can get clogged.

To properly moisturize our skin, we need to first supply it with some moisture, then lock that moisture in.

Applying just oils won't help.

Applying just a watery moisturizer won't help either (especially in low humidity).

Ideally, you need moisture, some humectants and occlusives (I love pure shea butter!). Humectants bind to water molecules, attracting them like a sponge, whereas occlusives block that water from evaporating so that it stays on your skin (keeping it moisturized).

Without the occlusives, the water just evaporates. Even worse, if there are humectants on your skin, and the moisture is gone, it will draw it from the deeper layers of your skin!

Related: Can't Find A Good Moisturizer For Acne-Prone Skin? Try this.

7. Check indoor temperature and humidity

If the air where you live is dry, it dries out your skin, too. So what is dry air (low humidity)? Research shows that for health and comfort, a relative indoor humidity of 40 to 60 percent is desirable.

Water evaporates all the time from your skin into the environment through a process called Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). TEWL is increased when the moisture levels of your skin are much higher than that of the air around it.

How to remedy this? First, turn down the temperature on your indoor heating. This can go a long way in keeping your skin moisturized. For me personally, I like to keep the indoor temp where I can comfortably wear a sweater! This makes my skin the happiest.

Secondly, use a humidifier if needed! Note: Please use with caution if there is any chance of mold overgrowth in your home!

I love to set my cold water humidifier for an hour or so before bedtime so that my skin stays hydrated through the night.

8. Use stress management techniques daily

I'll admit, I am not qualified to talk about this topic at all, as I am pretty bad when it comes to all the usual techniques: meditation, journaling, yoga, etc. However, I recommend at least exploring some options, and doing what works for you.

In my opinion, exercise is an incredibly powerful anti-stress tool, and the only one I use actually. Just getting outside in nature whenever you can is its own amazing form of meditation and relaxation! Do it as much as you can, there is no nature overdose, only benefits!

Being at peace with yourself, with who you are, and trusting that life leads you on a good path are very powerful ways of anti-stress management, but also self love (in my humble opinion). Regardless of how your skin looks right now, be nice to yourself!

In radiant skin health,

Sara

Questions! How do you cope with the after-summer breakouts? Do you struggle with it at all? Let me know in the comments!

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