If I told you I haven't used a regular moisturizer in more than 6 years, would you believe me?
I find it quite hard to find a moisturizer that works, and doesn't clog my skin or cause breakouts.
Tell me I'm not alone.
After more than a decade of struggle with my acne-prone skin, I really don't want to risk it unless I am 100% sure about the ingredients.
And as spoiled as I am, I also don't want many preservatives, stabilizers, emulsifiers and toxic ingredients in my skincare products.
Nothing my skin doesn't actually need!
In this post, I want to show you how to skip over the entire ‘good moisturizer for acne’ struggle.
So what do I do? It’s pretty simple actually.
I go back to the ingredients themselves and use them separately, instead of getting them in a single product!
However, it is vital that you apply them in the correct order.
Let's see what these products are are the correct skincare layering practices.
LAYERING BASICS FOR A DEEPLY MOISTURIZED SKIN – WITHOUT A MOISTURIZER!
Healthy, moisturized skin needs both water and oil (lipids, more accurately). Either one alone won't do. Without enough oils, the skin becomes dry, and without enough moisture, it becomes dehydrated.
Oils act as occlusives, sealing the moisture into your skin. Ok, so we need a moisture source and an oil (or another occlusive).
Remember, non-comedogenic oils high in linoleic acid are often very healing for acne-prone skin and if you can tolerate them, they can help you clear up your skin!
The correct way to layer them is to apply the water-rich products first, then the oil-based ones.
WATER-BASED PRODUCTS FIRST, THEN THE OIL-BASED ONES
Step 1. Apply water-based products. I prefer a hydrating toner like rose water toner or DIY chamomile tea toner. Let it absorb a bit. You can repeat this step 2-3 times if your skin needs extra moisture.
Step 2. While your skin is still slightly damp, apply an oil-based product. This may be an oil suitable for acne-prone skin, or a mix of oils (oil-based serum). If you have oily skin, you might not need the oils, as your skin's natural oils will lock in the moisture. Here is my favorite oil-based serum.
You might wonder, but why do we apply them in this order? Well, there are a few reasons.
1. WATER AND OIL DON'T MIX
Have you ever mixed water and oil, only to see oil droplets on the surface?
The basic chemistry principle tells us that water and oil don't mix. This is why moisturizers, which are basically mixtures of oil (or waxes) and water, need an emulsifier, whose job is to blend the water and oil together.
Your skin uses this principle to its advantage, though.
The lipids (oily substances) on your skin prevent too much water from entering your body. Water molecules cannot easily pass through when there is a thick layer of oil, because that would involve dilution of water in the oil.
2. WATER PENETRATES THE SKIN, AND OILS STAY ON THE SURFACE
Despite the blockage from oils, some water still passes through. Water molecules travel deeper into your skin than oils (due to their low molecular mass), and this is exactly where we need them for a deeply moisturized skin.
On the other hand, oils remain mostly on the surface, and that's a good thing.
They act as occlusives, whose job is to block too much water from escaping your skin, which keeps your skin moisturized.
In summary, applying a water-based product first lets your skin easily absorb that moisture (without much oil to block its passage).
After that, a layer of oil (occlusive) locks that moisture into your skin so that it doesn’t evaporate.
There is something more you need to be aware of, in case you are not a fan of oils, and you may think to just skip them.
Or, if you are a fan of oils, but you're using only oils! Keep on reading.
HUMECTANTS MAKING YOUR SKIN DEHYDRATED?
If you apply only watery serums or moisturizers, even natural ones like aloe vera gel, your skin might get dehydrated.
Why?
Humectants (water-binding substances) are often the main ingredients of such products, including hyaluronic acid (the humectant superstar) and aloe vera gel.
They hold the moisture on your skin, acting like little sponges that attract water. They make your skin look more moisturized and plump, but only temporary.
Without the occlusives (oils), the water evaporates more easily from your skin.
If there is insufficient moisture in the air, humectants draw the water from the deeper layers of your skin, which evaporates yet again, leaving your skin dehydrated!
This is why light, water-rich moisturizers (with humectants) may be actually dehydrating your skin, especially if you live in a dry climate. And also why finding a good moisturizer that's not too heavy, won't clog the skin, but still does the job, is just so difficult when you have acne-prone skin!
THE PROBLEM WITH USING ONLY OILS
Basically, the problem is that they lack water (which healthy and moisturized skin needs!). So always make sure your routine gives a boost of moisture to your skin first.
Slathering more and more oil and balms will not do much if your skin lacks water (although most of our skin's natural moisture comes from inside).
Also, if you have acne-prone skin, always make sure to use the right oil for your skin (never coconut or olive oil!). Check out this blog post:
I hope this post has inspired you to try the water-oil layering practice instead of searching for a moisturizer! You can also check out exactly how I do it for my morning skincare routine here:
Related: My Protective Morning Skincare Routine For Acne-Prone Skin
Which moisturizers worked for your skin? Have you ever tried a hydrating toner and an oil combo?
Are you in your 20s or 30s, and tired of still struggling with acne and breakouts? There is so much misinformation about the right skincare for getting clear skin, and caring for sensitive acne-prone skin. This is why I made a FREE online course where you will find little-known skin healing secrets you won't usually hear from the skincare industry or dermatologists. And yet, they WORK.
Sign up (and get instant access!) here:
Finally, I understand how to properly moisturize! It’s so simple when you explain it, yet I’ve struggled for years to achieve the right balance. At one point I used only jojoba oil while living in the desert, and on top of my acne I developed painful, itchy, flaky, dehydrated skin. It was terrible! I have been following your oil cleansing routine for just two days and I already feel my skin is refreshed and hydrated without all the terrible oiliness!
I am so happy to hear that:))) Yes, knowledge is powerful, isn’t it? 🙂 That was my exact experience with OCM, too, and it felt so good! Hope everything settles now for your skin:)
How about emulsion ? Like korean skincare products laneige essential balancing emulsion.
If they contain both water and oils, it can be fine. However, I don’t like having emulsifiers in such products, because they are also somewhat disruptive of the skin barrier (they are used to mix oils and water together).
Hi Sara! Your blog is amazing, thanks a lot for sharing with us your experience. I’ve been looking for such knowledge for a long time and here in Italy there’s nothing that can be compared to your blog.
I’ve got a question: I’ve got really oily yet dehydrated skin. A makeup I’ve been using dried out my skin which is now more acne-prone than ever. Is it fine for me to fix dehydration by applying the combination of aloe vera gel and the grapeseed oil and is there something else I can do? is it normal for me to feel my skin really tight right after applying the aloe vera gel? I’ve Also just bought the 100% pure green tea water bomb mask. As for the makeup, I’ve bought the alima pure satin Matte foundation. Thank you again :))
Hi Federica! Thank you so so much!:)) I am sorry to hear about your skin. Grapeseed oil can be a good choice for this. I would also try rose water, and if your skin gets dry, jojoba oil. Yes, the skin can feel tight after applying aloe vera gel:) Hope this helps!:)
Thanks a lot! I’m using the products you suggest and my skin looks already better :)) However my nose keeps breaking out. I’ve noticed dry spots on my nose even though I’ve got really oily skin, I don’t know if they could be the reason why I keep breaking out. During winter and spring I didn’t break out as bad as now that it’s summer (just on my nose!) . What would you suggest? Thanks again for your kindness 🙂
Yes, it is quite normal to break out more during the summer, because UV rays deplete antioxidants in our skin, which makes your skin more prone to clogged pores! Try a gentle clay mask for your nose, and don’t apply any products afterwards, and see if that helps!:) Also, choosing whole foods rich in antioxidants that diminish the oxidative damage is the key!
Thank you so so much!!! One last question: as for the makeup, is it fine to just put the alima pure satin matte foundation right after my moisturizer? I’m always afraid that the powder can get stuck in my large pores and eventually break me out. I cannot use any oil-free liquid foundation anymore because they dry me out in some spots, like on my nose or forehead, while the alima pure foundation doesn’t. Thanks a lot for your help, I’ll keep following your advices. The products you suggest are amazing! 😀
Thank you, I am glad to hear my recs help!:)) The answer is yes, you can use it right after. Let you moisturizer absorb for a minute, then you can go in with makeup, no problem.:)
Thank you so much sara! Is it possible to contact you for a consultancy service? My skin is so dehydrated that it doesn’t even absorb my usual moisturizer anymore 🙁
Hi Federica! So sorry to hear that! But I am sure we can do something about it! Of course you can.:) I offer an online coaching program (have been coaching for over a year now, yet still unofficial because lack of time), just send me an email to [email protected] and I will send you over more details!:))
How much a consultant fee??
Hi Emily!:) If you are interested in my consultation services, send me an email to [email protected], and we will take it from there!:)
Hi Sara, I have used aloe or moisturizer + 1 or 2 drop oil, sunscreen(zinc oxide 20%) then I always get red bumps in my forehead, whiteheads, blackheads and really hurt cystic acne. Then I figure out, whenever I use zinc oxide sunscreen, it constantly gives me clogged pores(black heads,whiteheads all over my face except near eye area) at the end of days. Normally, zinc oxide sunscreen is good for acne prone skin, but it is possible to keep giving me clogged pores? If so, why should I do? I changed a lot of different type of zinc oxide sunscreen, anything works for me. Help me out….. it makes me so frustrated.
Hi Emily! I am so sorry to hear that, but it is possible that you just can’t tolerate zinc oxide!:(( You would then probably need to go for a “chemical” sunscreen.
Hi Sara!
I am so fascinated with the “science” of clear skin and your site has been such a great source of information! Can a rose toner be used in the same way as the rose water for this process of moisturizing with a water than oil?
Hi Kristen! Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!:) Yes, of course. Use anything water-rich under the oil. The trick is to apply plenty of moisture before you seal it in with an occlusive (oil).
Hi Sara! I’m so happy to have come across this article – I have been on the search for a good moisturizer for my oily acne prone skin forever! I will most definitely be trying this method out, but I had a question on the application.
During the day I use a lactic acid serum (Sunday Riley) followed by my tinted moisturizer (NARS), concealer, powder, etc. Can I use the rose water, for example, followed by an oil underneath my morning routine or should I eliminate something?
As for evening, I use Epiduo to help heal and clear up my acne and will sometimes use jojoba oil on top to moisturize a bit. Should I incorporate the rose water to the routine (aka is it ok to use all three at night?), and if so, in what order?
So appreciate your insight and thank you again for this very, very informative post!
I am so glad to hear that!:) You can definitely use rose water plus on oil before your makeup routine. In the PM, you can use rose water before any moisturizer your apply. Hope this helps!:)
What oil would you recommend for someone with dry acne prone skin?
I am thinking either pumpkin seed oil, or even better, argan oil. Argan oil is great in my experience and won’t clog pores, but it is definitely more nourishing than any other oils I have tried.:) Also, shea butter in small amounts is super helpful when you layer it over lots of a water-based product. Hope this helps!:)
In one of your other posts you mentioned refrigerating Hempseed oil. Is it necessary to refrigerate aloe vera gel (specifically, the kind you often recommend) and/or Grapeseed oil? I could be wrong, but it seems oils are applied more easily when warm (i.e. they penetrate the skin better). Or does the temperature matter?
Also, for very oily skin (visible within a few hours…specifically, in T-zone), would you recommenced I use aloe vera gel for moisture then a thin layer of Hempseed oil, or skip the Hempseed altogether? Or perhaps aloe vera and green tea extract (drops mixed with more aloe vera gel)? My ultimate goal is good skin moisture with noticeable oil control but not to drying where my skin starts to produce more oil.
Thank you in advance. The information you provide is SOOO beneficial that I’ve spent hours on your site!
Hi Mary!
Thank you, I am very glad to hear that!:) Yes, you need to refrigerate all these. As for the skincare routine, I recommend experimenting a bit to see what your skin likes best, as all options are good. You can even layer green tea toner and aloe (then add hemp oil or not). Let me know how it works! 🙂 Feel free to send me an email to [email protected]
Hi Sara, my skin is so dry, oily and congested with blackheads all over my face after over exfoliating. I’ve been using aloe Vera gel then spray rose water and while skin is slightly damp I put on hempseed oil, it’s been 2 months and my skin is still not healing. Oh and I wash my face with Manuka Honey . Am I doing something wrong? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Olga!
That sounds like a nice routine, but I would need to know much more about your skin and your previous routine to give you specific recommendations. Contact me at [email protected]! 🙂
Hi Sara,
I am about to start the OCM method with hemp oil as my nightly cleanser, how would you recommend moisturizing with the above method as I presume that after using the OCM there will be oil residue left on your face, therefore not worthwhile putting a water based gel on first? Or would you recommend moisturising this way in the morning and then in the evening after the OCM then just allowing the oils to moisturise?
Many thanks!
Olivia
Hi Olivia! Great questions! I find that after the OCM, there are very little oils left, so I continue with my usual evening routine (serum, then oil or moisturizer). If you find that the products aren’t penetrating well, you can use a toner after OCM to remove the residual oils. Hope this helps!:)
Thank you 🙂 I’m excited to give it a try! X
Hi Sarah!
I recently discovered your site and I’m loving all this new information! I have been dealing with inflamed and rashy acne for several years. After reading your make up guide I stopped using my current make up and switched to Alima Pure. I have seen a HUGE improvement. I’m now convinced that the majority of my breakouts were related to my make up (and my sensitive skin).
My next goal is to find a good moisturizer. I have oily skin but it also gets a little flaky, which I notice after applying powder makeup. I am afraid to try using oils as a moisturizer for fear they will break me out. Do you have any suggestions on a good introductory oil? Or maybe a good moisturizer to try instead? I use the paula’s choice clear line for my evening routine and sometimes in the morning, but they don’t have a good (or affordable) moisturizer.
Hi Rachel! I am so glad to hear that!:))) Yes, that can make a huge difference! About the moisturizer, check out the ones by Eminence ORganics for oily skin, I love their line!:)
I like tumanu oil, I am acne prone!
Tamanu is amazing for healing the scars and the such, but watch out in case it is comedogenic for you (it can be for some people). 🙂
Hey Sara! I read on your blog that if you’re starting the OCM you should start by using the oil as just a moisturizer at first instead of cleansing with it. I have sunflower oil to start, but the rosewater won’t arrive for a couple of weeks. I stopped using harsh cleansers 8 days ago and have pretty much been just cleansing with water until the oils arrived because I want to give my acid mantle time to regroup. Can I start using the sunflower oil or should I wait for the rosewater? I didn’t know if I needed to just introduce one product at a time. Thanks!
Hi Elizabeth! Yes, you can start with sunflower, no problem!:) Just make sure to wipe off the oils gently and remove it as much as you can so that it isn’t a shock for your skin after using harsh cleansers, which are very stripping.
This makes so much sense! I’m so glad to have stumbled on your page! What oils do you recommend for dehydrated acne prone skin? Thick moisturizers clog my pores, and I have acne scars and redness, yet my skin feels super dehydrated.
So glad you found it!:)) Oils can’t fix dehydration per se, only lock the moisture in, so you could use a hyaluronic acid serum underneath a sunflower oil or pumpkin seed oil (organic, cold pressed). Even jojoba can be good! Some people can’t tolerate oils, so if that’s you, perhaps a light moisturizer can be ok.
Hi Sara! Is there a specific brand of hyaluronic acid that you recommend or are they all the same? Thanks!
The Ordinary and Passport Organics are great!:)
Hi Sara,
I’m so glad I found a blog with natural and affordable choices of skincare products. I’ve started using rose water and grapeseed oil as a combination. It’s my first time of using a product that isn’t made to dry out my skin (my skin is really oily and acne-prone) and even though the oil feels a little greasy I think it works well. I also wanted to use aloe vera gel but I always feel like washing my face after applying it. Is it okay to wash it off after 10-15 minutes? Thanks for your time. Have a blessed day:)
Glad to hear that!:) You don’t need to do aloe vera, you can simply just use the rose water:))
What if your skin can’t tolerate oils at all? I have acne-prone skin and seborrheic dermatitis. The only oil the dermatitis can tolerate is MCT oil, which is bad for the acne. I’ve been using First Aid Beauty
Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer. Bad idea?
MCT oil is often quite safe for acne, but if you can’t tolerate oils, you need an oil-free routine:) That moisturizer is nice, can’t say whether it is a good fit for you personally though!:)
Hi sara,
How to layer hyaluronic acid/ oil after using actives like BHA,since actives are applied on dry skin?