Do you steer clear of the oils because you just don't believe they won't clog your skin and cause more acne?
I don't blame you. Chances are, many commonly used oils will do just that.
Surely, you should always aim to choose those labeled ‘organic', ‘cold-pressed', ‘unrefined', but this, on contrary to the popular belief, is not enough to ensure they won't cause you breakouts.
It is true that some skin types simply cannot tolerate oils. If you notice any signs of skin worsening after you introduce an oil (even months later), you should stop it. This tolerance also depends on how healthy and balanced your skin is at the moment, too.
Still, the right oil can do wonders for your skin when you use it the right way.
In the sea of plain wrong information, I want to explain the two KEY factors to help you choose the best face oil for your skin.
So let's get started!
1. COMEDOGENICITY RATING
Comedogenicity rating tells you how likely a substance is to clog your pores. This is VERY important for acne-prone skin, as clogged pores are the beginning of acne. The ratings are on the scale from 0-5:
0 – Will not clog pores
1 – Low
2 – Moderately low
3 – Moderate
4 – Fairly high
5 – High
Always choose oils (or any other product) with a low comedogenicity rating (0-2).
However, unique skin chemistry makes every individual react somewhat differently to different oils.
2. THE RATIO OF LINOLEIC TO OLEIC ACID IN THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF AN OIL
This is the golden nugget!
You can usually see the composition of oils on the label. What you see are different fatty acids – the building blocks of oils, and linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid) is one of them.
Linoleic acid makes an oil lighter and drier, so it sinks into your skin and doesn't leave a greasy residue, usually after 20 min of applying when it is fully absorbed.
It also helps to correct an inherent deficiency of acne-prone skin, which I will explain more about below.
Oleic acid makes an oil heavier (greasier). It is comedogenic by itself, so oils rich in oleic acid can clog pores and ultimately lead to acne.
Taken together, the percentages of linoleic and oleic acid in each oil make it an easy guess whether an oil will suit your skin or not.
If you have acne-prone skin, use oils that have a (much) higher percentage of linoleic than oleic acid!
If your skin is on the dry side, it is a good idea to choose oils with somewhat more oleic acid for moisturizing properties.
Oils with a very high content of linoleic acid (and a high ratio of linoleic to oleic acid) might actually be drying to your skin after some time of usage. If that happens, try diluting it down with a more moisturizing oil.
Update: I have recently started to use MCT oil for oil cleansing, and highly recommend trying it out! It should work even if your skin didn't like other oils and/or is prone to fungal acne. Make sure it contains just capric and/or caprylic acid and NOT lauric acid (which can aggravate acne and clog the pores).
OILS FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN – SPECIFIC GUIDELINES FOR DIFFERENT SKIN TYPES
OILY ACNE-PRONE SKIN
By acne-prone skin, I don't necessarily mean full face of inflamed acne. That could also mean occasional breakouts or some stubborn pimples on a part of your face.
Sebum of acne-prone skin is deficient in linoleic acid, as shown by this study. This usually (but not always) happens when too much sebum is produced (resulting in oily skin).
Skin produces the extra sebum with oleic acid instead, which dilutes the linoleic acid content, and this is comedogenic!
Linoleic acid has been scientifically shown to reduce the occurrence of clogged pores and comedones.
Preventing the formation of comedones (clogged pores) is the KEY when it comes to having permanently clear skin!
Applying oils high in linoleic acid can help to restore linoleic acid balance and emulsify the hardened sebum, making it free-flowing, which helps to prevent future breakouts and acne.
You also need to take action to reduce excess sebum production to prevent acne.
When testosterone circulating in our blood gets converted to dihydrotestosterone (DHT) in the skin, it strongly increases the sebum production (yes, both men and women have testosterone).
There is a special enzyme doing the conversion (testosterone -> DHT) and it is called 5-alpha reductase.
To reduce excess oil (sebum), we have to reduce the conversion of testosterone to DHT.
How?
There are some known 5-alpha reductase inhibitors: gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, and zinc, for example, which act to block the action of 5-alpha reductase.
Here is a list of oils rich in linoleic acid that can help to reduce sebum production, and help you manage oily skin in the long run!
- Hemp seed oil (nr. 1 for OILY acne-prone skin)
- Grape seed oil(very light and odorless oil that absorbs easily, no greasy residue. I find it works great for most acne-prone skin types)
- Rosehip seed oil (great for reducing hyperpigmentation, mainly due to the high content of trans-retinoic acid – a derivative of vitamin A)
COMBINATION SKIN (OILY T-ZONE)
Many of us have somewhat more oil on the forehead, nose, and chin (the T-zone).
To reduce the excess oil on your T-zone, I would say the best is to use two different oils. Treat your T-zone as described for oily skin above, and cheeks as normal skin.
If you don't want to use two different oils, use rosehip seed oil. It will balance out the extra sebum while being nourishing at the same time.
- Rosehip seed oil (on the entire face)
- Jojoba oil (on the entire face or just cheeks)
- Hemp seed oil (on your T-zone or as a spot treatment – very effective!)
DRY ACNE-PRONE SKIN
It is a misconception that dry skin cannot be prone to acne.
Dryness actually causes inflammation in the skin, because the skin barrier is damaged. Bringing back the moisture into your skin and nourishment with the right oils will help.
Choose among oils with low comedogenicity ratings but with a somewhat balanced ratio of linoleic to oleic acid for moisturizing properties.
This will strengthen your skin and fight acne in the long run.
NORMAL SKIN WITH OCCASIONAL BREAKOUTS
Choose an oil with a higher ratio of linoleic to oleic acid, but a not very high ratio of linoleic to oleic acid, as this might be too drying.
- Rosehip seed oil (great for reducing hyperpigmentation, too)
- Pumpkin seed oil (more moisturizing than grapeseed or hemp seed oil)
- Jojoba oil (a classic that works great)
Hopefully, you feel more courageous now in trying facial oils!
Let me know your experience if you have used plant-based oils in your skin care.
Much love,
Sara
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Thank you for this article, it helps with a lot of confusion about oils! I just came across your blog because I also follow Organically Becca. ?
Hi Bianca!
Thank you so much for reading! 🙂 I LOVE Becca’s blog and all the good info she provides us with!
Hi! This is great I wish I had read this before using argan oil. My acne is more like clogged pores all over face “bumpy face” and then I usually get the red ones. But I also have extremely flaky skin that peels off while being oily I even use those paper things to remove oils during the day, so is a complicated type of skin LOL. Argan oil felt amazing helped my skin not to peel so much but sadly clogged pores and made me produce more oil. What oil should I use? And for oil cleansing as well. Jojoba does not cause problems but is not enough moisture, I am afraid sunflower could make me produce too much oil and I dont know if it is safe to use all over face, hemp oil on the other hand can be too drying like jojoba :S please help
Thanks!!!
Hi Carolina! Oh, yes, that sounds complicated!:) I would normally say jojoba oil, but if you don’t find it moisturizing enough, you may still want to give it another go, and make sure to layer water-rich products underneath that will bring a boost of moisture (I love spraying rose water a few times in a row, letting it absorb each time). Remember, oils in themselves are never moisturizing enough, the skin also needs water. Otherwise, maybe organic pumpkin seed oil can be what you are looking for, as it has linoleic acid to combat those clogged pores, yet it’s way more moisturizing that the hemp or grapeseed oil. Hope this helps!:))
Thanks for your reply!! I just bought rose water after reading the post you made on that, it will arrive to my country soon, I am pretty excited that will help with my dehydration. I will try the pumpkin seed oil as well, thanks again!
You’re welcome!:)) Hope it works, and let me know if you need any more help later!:)
Yes rosewater is amazing or check out Korean beauty skincare.. their toners are for hydration as well as their essences.
Hi Sara! Thank you so much for this article! I recently started using Jojoba oil on my skin as a moisturizer, but within a few days, I noticed acne starting to form and it seemed like way more pores were being clogged. I have larger pores on my t-zone and smaller pores on my cheeks. Usually I only ever broke out on my chin and forehead, but now I have little condones on my nose and larger zits on my cheek. I think I have combo skin for the most part, hence why I bought Jojoba oil (Aura acacia brand). Why do you think I broke out after a few days? Does it take longer for our skin to get used to this process? Or am I straight up using the wrong oil ??
Thanks for your help!
P.s. I think I’m going to buy some Aloe Vera Gel to help lock in the moisture. Your other articles are awesome!
Hi Annie! Thank you so much, glad you like my posts!:) I am sorry to hear about this bad experience with jojoba oil, but it can happen sometimes. Jojoba can be purging for some skin types, especially if you aren’t used to using oils. I would give it a break for now, and use your other skincare. If your skin is combo and quite sensitive, grapeseed oil might be great, but I would wait out until these breakouts subside so that you can see whether it helps or not:)
That’s good to know! I’ve never used oils on my skin before. I actually don’t use much right now because I’m too afraid of a reaction like this. I’m going to eventually try the Aloe Vera gel with an oil, but I’ll maybe start doing it once a week and build it up. I’ll look into Grapeseed Oil! Thank you so much for the info 🙂
Yes, absolutely! That is a good idea. When in doubt, go really slow and see how your skin responds:))
Hi Sara! Is there a way to help balance out linoleic acid in our skin through supplements as well? Like a fish oil? Thanks!
I recommend cod liver oil and it is great for reducing inflammation and making skin healthier. When the skin is healthy and the sebum production is optimal, there will also be linoleic acid balance:)
Very informative post, thank you very much. I’d really appreciate your advice. I’m male, in my late twenties and while my skin has improved a lot since I started eating a whole food, plant based diet over two years ago, I still get breakouts every couple of days.
Lately, I’ve been doing the following skin care routine: aloe vera gel and a tiny bit of shea butter in the morning, aloe vera gel and 3-4 drops of wild oregano oil in the evening. However, while this helps to some extent, I do not get the desired results from it.
I have to add that my skin is generally rather dry, especially around the eyes. On and around the nose and on the forehead, however, it tends to be a bit more oily. While the oregano oil certainly calms pimples, it also dries out my skin apparently. So I suppose it’s not something I should be using on my entire face and rather locally. Shea butter, on the other hand, seems to be a bit too nourishing for my skin. It’s absorbed very slowly and leaves my skin feeling kind of oily. I get the impression that it actually causes new breakouts to some extent.
So, long story short, after having read your article, I consider trying hemp seed oil and/or pumpkin seed oil. Which one would you suggest or my skin type? Pumpkin seed oil seems promising as it also lowers DHT, but then again I read it’s slightly comedogenic.
Also, I’ll adopt the method you described in another post – applying aloe vera gel first and any oil afterwards.
Again, thanks for the great information and I’d really appreciate your feedback. 🙂
Hi Manuel! Sorry to hear about your skin! Yes, shea butter might be too much. You can try grapeseed oil (it may dry out your skin after a while, but it isn’t as strong as hemp oil), while jojoba oil will not do that, it is just protective for your skin. in your case, both can be a good choice. Have you taken my Clear Skin Diet email course? You can sign up here: healthyskinglows.com/clear-course. Hope this helps!:)
Hey Sara, thank you very much for your reply. 🙂
I recently signed up to your email course and it’s great, I love it. Lots of really valuable information in there.
I have tried jojoba oil in the past but I remember that it aggravated my skin problems. Maybe I didn’t use it long enough or did not apply it correctly.
In the meantime, I got some organic hemp seed oil and applied it twice. Feels great on the skin. If my skin gets too dry after a while, do you reckon I could switch between grapeseed oil and hemp seed oil on a daily basis?
Also, how much of the oil should I apply? I’ve now used about half a teaspoon.
Sorry for all the questions, but I got one more: have you ever heard of random bad reactions to aloe vera gel? Most of the time, my skin seems to love it, but every now and then, my face gets extremely red after applying aloe vera gel, and I also get a burning, unpleasant sensation. I consider switching to rose water toner…
Hi Manuel! If your skin doesn’t love jojoba, listen to those signals and just give it up! If your skin gets too dry, try if grapeseed oil can help, if not, try adding a bit of organic argan oil into the mix. Just make sure it is good quality and that it doesn’t smell bad. Apply enough oil so that your skin feels moisturized, but not too oily! Half a teaspoon can be ok. About aloe vera gel – it is usually the extra ingredients like preservatives that people react to, so if that’s the case, just stick with the rose water!:)
PErfect, glad to hear that!:)) You do that!:)
Hi Sara,
Thanks for the article. I was looking to learn about the right lonoleic to oleic ratio for me and it really helped. I’m not sure what my skin type is but the only part of my face that gets really oily is my nose. The reasy of it is pretty regular but if I don’t moisturize it feels stiff and dry (as is normal. Right?) What would you recommend I use?
P.S. Right now I layer aloe Vera gel and Shea butter and my skin feels great but I still have stubborn acne on my chin, jaw and sometimes, cheeks and forehead. I have had these for more than two years now and I really want them to clear out.
Hi Lois! To me, aloe vera and shea butter sounds like a lovely combo! If you are struggling with stubborn breakouts, there can be many causes. You might want to introduce a gentle exfoliation session 1-2 per week, but I would need to go over everything you eat, previous skincare etc, to really pinpoint what is causing your breakouts (could be internal, or your skincare needs to be better tailored to your skin).
Hi Sara! Is there any reason I’m breaking out continuously with application of hemp seed oil? I tried to use it on an outbreak of hormonal acne and it seemed to get worse so i stopped for a few days until my period ended. So a week goes by after it ends and I decide to reapply, thinking maybe it was just my oily skin during my hormonal changes. By then my acne had slightly subsided so I thought it would be a good chance to see if it did break me out or if it was just my period. Ended up with a few spots the next morning. Went ahead and reapplied a second time, resulting in more spots and some of them coming to a head. Took myself off of it and washed my face without it for a few days and my acne calmed right down. Right now its dry but not itchy dry. Its extremely dull. What should I do and what moisturizer do you think will work best for me? Im in my late twenties so im trying to keep with moisturizers. I also eat plant based as well. Ive tried apricot seed oil and that never breaks me out but I heard it was unsafe due to the trace amounts of cyanide that’s in the kernels.
Hi Krystal! It seems like oils don’t agree with your skin at all! I suggest stopping them completely. If you would like me to review your skincare routine, and recommend a new one, send me an email to [email protected] and I will send you more details on the package I offer! 🙂
Hi, I had a bad reaction to almond oil and have a damaged skin barrier. Afraid to use oils that are too high in linoleic… so I am patch testing argan oil and rosehip oil… I guess almond oil is really high in oilec acid and can further damage the skin barrier because it penetrates the skin…what do u think?
Hi Kimmy! Oils higher in linoleic acid than oleic acid are helpful for the skin barrier. I don’t think almond oil will damage the skin barrier at all, but it might cause breakouts if your skin is oily to begin with. If your skin is dry and sensitive now, I wouldn’t do oils, perhaps later. If your skin barrier is damaged, you need products that target specifically that.Marie Veronique has some great products for that so you can check them out:)
Hi Sara! I’ve found your blog to be immensely helpful in transitioning to natural skin care and makeup, so thank you!! After struggling with what I thought was acne for years, I was recently diagnosed with rosacea. I’m wondering if you have any advice for what oil to use for OCM that will help with rosacea? My skin is very dry and flaky. I’m also wondering if you have any suggestions for a solid or liquid coverup that doesn’t contain coconut oil? Thanks you very much!!
Hi Jenn! I am so happy to hear that!:)) If you have rosacea, avoid oils high in linoleic acid, such as rosehip, hemp or grapeseed, as they can be drying. I would rather turn to shea butter, and layer it after a nice hydrating serum or toner (or even fresh aloe vera). This works really nicely for dry skin and I do it all the time in the winter!:))
Hi Sara,
I have a question concerning hemp seed oil. Is it possible that this oil causes breakout after 2 weeks into it?
I started incorporating hemp seed oil into my routine 2 weeks ago as a means of moisturizing/hydrating my skin during the cold & dry winter (moisturizer alone wouldn’t work). At first the oil seemd to do wonders to my skin: no more dry, much less acne… I felt awesome. BUT after 2 weeks my skin started to break out in cystic pimples all over the place. It’s important to note that I neither changed anything in my diet nor skincare regime, so hemp seed oil is my prime suspect.
It’s been 3 days now and my skin shows no sign of improvement yet. I know my skin needs time to adjust to the new oil and breakout/purging can occur, but I didn’t expect it to happen only after 2 weeks because your skin is supposed to react right after the first application?
I am dying to hear from you Sara
Thank you.
Hi there! Yes, this sounds like your skin cannot tolerate hemp oil! Just stop it and introduce a regular moisturizer for your moisturizing routine:) Alternatively, squalane oil is a good choice that isn’t pore clogging and shouldn’t cause you these issues. Still, a moisturizer right now might be the safest choice!
Thanks for your quick reply Sara.
I will discontinue using hemp oil and see how it goes.
Btw this is the first time I’ve heard of squalane. For extra moisturization can I apply it on top of moisturizer and under make up? My skin still feels dry with moisturizer alone, though I’m using one of the best hydroboost from neutrogena.
Yes, you can definitely do that!:)
Hi Sara,
since around november struggle with acne. Thats kind of the time I startet a desensitization for some allergies (havend changed anything else in that time). I didn’t have problems like this even in puberty… but my docs says that’s not a usual side effect but it isn’t impossible. Which is kind of not helping at all…
Nevertheless, I tried washing with green clay an toning first (for maybe 2-3 weeks). Which made it worse. Then I startet OCM. First with grapeseed and ricinus, then just grapeseed, then grapeseed and shea and now with jojoba (now since 3 weeks). I’m kind of not sure wether I just don’t tolerate OCM at all or something else. It hasn’t gotten better at all. But I don’t really have any comparision to how it has been before. Skincolored bumps and acne on the cheeks and temple.
I just need a second opinion on wether it makes sense to stay with the OCM or not. (Everybody else wants me to go to a doctor…)
Thanks in advance,
Vivien
Hi Vivien! I would say you should pause the OCM, but I am also confused about the rest of your skincare routine. How about you send me more info about your skin and exact skincare steps morning and evening to [email protected]? Then I can help you out more!:)
Hi Sara! I was wondering, is evening primrose oil worth adding to a homemade oil blend for erythma scarring? I see it’s comedogenic rating is 2-3 so I don’t know if it’s worth it if it will clog my pores. Also would you recommend geranium oil or frankincense for erythma scarring? Thanks so much!!
Don’think these will help with erythema! Perhaps frankincense can be of little help if your skin tolerates it!:)
Thanks Sarah! Would they maybe help with hyperpigmentation then?
Hi Sara,
I loved reading your article about choosing the right oils for your skin type. I am 22 and have been struggling with acne since I turned 18. I tried all of the acne lines from the drug stores and nothing seemed to work. Last summer I started using a DYI oil-based moisturizer that worked wonders for about a month. Unfortunately this didn’t last long and I started my usual breakouts again and I started to notice an oil residue on my skin. I have oily acne-prone skin that is highly sensitive. I was using Jojoba and tamanau carrier oils. What would you recommend for me? I could really use a win right now in the skin department.
Hi Danielle! Uh, so sorry to hear that! It sounds like your skin couldn’t tolerate these oils. Normally, squalane oil (which isn’t actually an oil) is pretty good for acne prone skin and well tolerated. I also love MCT oil for oil cleansing as of this year, so I will update this post. However, to get rid of your acne you need to identify all your acne triggers first!
Can MCT oil be used for moisturizing as well as cleansing?
I would think so!:)
I have acne prone skin but with redness/rosacea on my cheeks, I was thinking hemp oil for OCM and either borage/rosehip for my evening moisturizer oil? Would you recommend this ?
Hello,
Thank you for all of the wonderful information that you provide!! In terms of picking a brand for hemp seed oil or rosehip oil are there specific things we should be looking for? I know you recommend the rose water toner from leven rose, is the rosehip oil that they sell a good oil to use as well?
Thank you for your help, hope you and your family are staying healthy during these crazy times.
Tarah
Hope you are doing well too and staying safe and healthy!:) Yes, you can look for certified organic and cold pressed, reputable companies are best bet:)
Hi Sara
i cannot find the pai rosehip oil anywhere as it is out of stock. But instead i found this one – https://www.skinessence.ca/shop/rosehip-seed-oil/
is this okay? it says 100% certified and organic too. Let me know pls.
Hi Sara,
Firstly, I want to thank you for the insights you’ve provided in your content. Your content is great! I’ve especially read everything about oil cleansing here. I’ve combination acne-prone skin and nothing seems to work for my skin, I’m 25.
I want to add oil cleansing in my rountine and I ordered rosehip seed oil for it. But it says on the bottle it’s not advisable to use essential oils directly on the skin as they’re concentrated. Can you tell me if it’s okay to use it directly in skin or should I mix it with another(carrier) oil for oil cleansing?