Is your skincare routine helping your skin face the daily challenges, pollution and sun damage or exposing it to them?
I've learned over the years of struggling with acne and reading as much scientific literature as I can, what really works when it comes to the morning skincare routine.
It all comes down to this one little word: protection.
I am not talking just about sunscreen, though. There is way more than that. I am talking about working with your skin’s natural protective mechanisms given to you by the generous mother nature!
So before I dive into the details of my skincare routine, and how you can easily replicate it for great results, I have some explaining to do.
The ultimate goal is to strengthen the protective mechanisms of the skin and add some new ones for healthy, clear and radiant looking skin.
PROTECTIVE MECHANISM NR.1: A HEALTHY SKIN BARRIER
The skin barrier is hugely important for healthy and clear skin.
It's the top layer of your skin, consisting of dead skin cells (corneocytes), held together by a matrix of lipids. The matrix acts like a ‘glue’ that holds the cells together.
Skin barrier makes the skin so impermeable to many harmful substances and microorganisms, reduces the loss of water from your skin and so much more.
The ‘glue’ gets disrupted to a certain degree with cleansing and exfoliating. This is due to the action of surfactants in cleansers, especially the harsh ones, like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES).
During cleansing, surfactants remove components from the stratum corneum – particularly cholesterol, proteins and Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) molecules. These precious molecules do exactly what the name suggests: moisturize your skin by holding onto water.
And you should aim to have as many as possible for a naturally moisturized skin!
Exfoliating removes the top layer of your skin, thus removing your natural defense mechanism. This literally means that your skin is naked and much more exposed to the daily pollution and oxidative damage, and more sensitive to the sun, so you could end up with hyperpigmentation spots!
I know none of us wants that, so check all your moisturizers and toners for exfoliating ingredients (such as glycolic or lactic acid).
Reserve exfoliation for evening routine only.
If you are unsure which ingredients are exfoliants, you can check the ingredients at EWG SkinDeep, you will see that at the ‘Function(s)' if it says, ‘exfoliant’.
PROTECTIVE MECHANISM NR. 2: MAINTAINING THE OPTIMAL SKIN PH
Another reason I am not a fan of cleansing with a foaming cleanser in the mornings is that it disrupts the skin’s optimal pH (acid mantle). The acid mantle is absolutely essential for healthy skin (which I am saying over and over, but it doesn’t hurt once more).
Related: 5 Reasons Why I Don't Wash My Face In The Morning
The amount of time it takes for your skin to re-establish the correct pH depends on how healthy your skin is, and other products you are using. This can be anywhere from half an hour to 24 hours, according to various reports, so it’s better to be on the safe side.
Here are some of the reasons why maintaining the optimal pH at (nearly) all times is so important:
REASON #1
The acid mantle boosts the immune system of the skin. It does so by creating an acidic environment in which foreign microorganisms cannot survive. If the acid mantle is disrupted, the skin becomes more permeable to the pathogens and other irritants, which can result in a skin infection or irritation (and acne!).
REASON #2
The acid mantle protects the skin cells underneath, promoting a strong skin barrier. By keeping those dead skin cells nice and flat, it strengthens the barrier function. Taken together, the acid mantle and skin barrier offer an everyday protection from damaging environmental influences.
REASON #3
The acid mantle keeps the skin soft and supple by preventing water loss, keeping your skin naturally moisturized.
REASON #4
Certain enzymes responsible for important skin processes, including natural exfoliation, are active only at pH ~ 5 (your skin's optimal pH). Changes in the skin’s pH affect their activity, and consequently, interfere with (at least) the following important processes:
- Skin’s own exfoliation process (called desquamation). Natural exfoliation process is very important because it keeps your skin not only clear but also naturally smooth and glowing, not just right after you exfoliate!
- Breaking down the excess sebum into the skin
- Activation of enzymes responsible for the synthesis of epidermal lipids (hello supple skin!)
- Restoration of the skin after a mechanical or chemical damage
Take home message here is that cleansing your skin first thing in the morning is just so yesterday. It's simply old skin care info that we have been brainwashed with for decades.
If you have cleansed your skin the night before, there is absolutely no need to do that again in the morning.
I don’t want to offend anyone, but I also don’t want you to hurt your skin in any way. And believe me, I take your skin very very seriously.
Related: The Truth About What Cleansers Do To Your Skin
The good news is, if you keep a simple skincare routine as explained below, you won’t need to worry about disrupting any of the protective skin mechanisms, and your skin will glow!
MY FOUR STEP MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
Step 1. Spray on a gentle toner (my fave is rose water)
I do this 2-3 times in a row, letting it fully absorb before the next step. It brings a boost of moisture to my skin, as water can quite easily penetrate through the skin barrier.
If you want to get rid of excess oil, simply use some rose water on a cotton pad and wipe it off.
For this step, you can use as many essences or other water-based products as you want that don't contain exfoliating agents (unless in a very small amount). Just apply one after the other, letting each absorb fully. This is especially good if your skin is dehydrated.
Step 2 (optional). Apply a vitamin C/E serum or other antioxidant-rich serum suited for acne-prone skin.
Antioxidants are exactly what fights the oxidative damage, aka early aging but also whiteheads, blackheads, and acne.
Oxidative damage of the sebum component called squalene results in a very comedogenic substance – squalene peroxide, which clogs your pores and leads to acne (source). This is especially problematic for oily skin, due to the excess sebum (and excess squalene).
Related: How To Get Rid Of Oily Skin – 5 Action Steps
Therefore, I love to use the combination of vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid, as this is very powerful. Vitamin C and E work much better together than each of them alone. Ferulic acid is another great antioxidant, and adding some hyaluronic acid to the mix ensures great hydration, too!
I currently use the Vitamin C serum by 100% Pure, and while it contains other great ingredients like sea buckthorn oil, ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid, and I am overall pleased with it, the best one I've used is the Vitamin C+E+Ferulic Acid Serum by Marie Veronique.
Step 3. Lock everything in with a small amount of oil or a moisturizer
This step locks in the moisture I provided with the rose water and/or serum.
I apply 2-3 drops and let them absorb for a few minutes. I normally use jojoba oil or squalane oil, depending on the state of my skin at the moment. They both absorb pretty quickly, leaving just a little bit of shine, which I love. Instead of an oil, you can also use a nice moisturizer to lock the moisture in.
Related: Can't Find A Good Moisturizer For Acne-Prone Skin? Try this.
Step 4. Apply a non-comedogenic mineral sunscreen
We all know the importance of wearing the sunscreen daily, so I won't waste too many words on that.
What I really like is when they contain broad-spectrum protection (such as zinc oxide) and extra antioxidants to protect the skin. I am currently in love with Everyday Coverage Tinted Sunscreen SPF 30 from Marie Veronique, and it's one of the few that doesn't clog my pores at all. It's also packed with green tea extract, which has scientifically proven anti-acne activity (source) and prevents oxidative damage!
This entire routine takes me about 5min, but only a couple of min hands-on time. In between running after my son, trying to change his clothes, wipe off the remains of breakfast on his chin, and make him ready for kindergarten. Real life, y’all.
I really hope you found this helpful and got some inspiration to spice up your skincare routine. However, if your skincare routine is very different from mine, don't switch out your entire skincare products overnight!
Always introduce just one new product at a time, and follow how your skin reacts. If you need help with creating a good skincare routine that fits your skin, take my FREE email course first (sign up below). You can also contact me here.
In radiant skin health,
Sara
Questions! What is your morning skincare routine? Share in the comments!
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Thank You so much for sharing! I love the scientific explanation and I will change my morning routine to a copy of yours. I am so happy to have found you, and so far it seems like grapeseedoil is really good for my skin, as it is calming down :).
Hi Lina!
I am so so happy to hear that!:)) I love grapeseed oil, it was the first one to calm my skin as well! Definitely copy my routine, if your skin is very sensitive at the moment, just use the rose water, and the oil, skipping the serum, as any additional ingredients on your skin might irritate it. Then introduce it later on, when your skin is in good shape:) And of course, keep me posted on your progress!:)
I am having acne because of hormonal issues. What routine should I follow ? Is scrubing is good or not .
Hi Shreya! No, scrubbing is never good! I can’t say which routine because I don’t know enough about your skin. However, I developed a protocol for creating your best skincare routine, and will be published soon!:) I can send you details to your email if you would like?
Thank you for sharing your routine. I do have a question. What about after exercise in the morning. I go running a few times a week and I live in the south where it’s humid and I sweat pretty easily. What are your recommendations for after exercise?
Hi Ginny!
Love this question!:) I also exercise in the morning, and do nothing skincare wise before the exercise. After I am finished, most of the times I would give my skin a few minutes to stop sweating, then simply use some rose water on a cotton pad to wipe off the oil and sweat. I find this to be very gentle and soothing, and not so dehydrating as hot water from the shower. Alternatively, you can just splash some cold water on your face and keep it away from the water stream in the shower. Hope this helps!:)
That’s very helpful thank you!
You are welcome! 🙂 <3
Hi! I am wondering what you do for your evening routine?
Hi Nicole! I do oil cleansing, or just cleanse with honey, followed by a spray of toner (usually rose water), and locking in that moisture with an oil-based serum. Instead of the toner step, I might use vitamin C serum. I have a demo on my insta page (@healthyskinglows). Hope it helps!:)
May I ask why you stopped using hemp oil??
Because it is best suited for oily skin, and my skin finally isn’t oily anymore! :)) As I say in my email course, it is quite strong, so it can dry out the skin and should be used only as long as skin’s sebum production is too high, then it’s best to switch to jojoba.
Hey! I’m struggling a looot with finding a skin routine that works for me. I’m also skeptical to everything with chemicals in it and would love to go as natural as possible! I’m a big fan of aloe vera and rosewater and that’s the only thing I use during summer, and my skin is fine! During winter though my skin gets very dry and sensitive, as soon as I pop the tiniest pimple I get the biggest scab. Been troubleshooting with oil cleansing method for a few weeks now (using hemp oil and sometimes mixing in some tea tree), my skin is sensitive and not that oily, more easiy dry or maybe combination? In one way I love oil cleansing because it seems to heal scabs from acne better, but I also experience getting more pimples now than before? Usually not that big but still it seems to clog up my skin a little bit! Do you have any advice on what I should do? My skin is screaming for more moisture but I’m sick of getting more pimples all the time!
Hi there! I totally understand! You need to take care of the dryness first. Hemp oil is only for people with oily skin because it is drying. Also, not all people can tolerate oils. In your case, I would choose a gentle skincare line that is nourishing, like Pai Skincare.
Hello! I have been loving your information! I am wondering what to put on my face when I am having a break out, I don’t want to clog my skin leading to more zits and I want to get ride of them without scaring and hopefully fast. I usually put salt on or a clay mask… I also have heard that toothpaste is good to put on??? I have no idea if this is good for my skin or if it working. What do you suggest??
Clay mask is ok! You can try one drop of tea tree oil at the end of your routine as a spot treatment. Hope this helps!:)
Hi, what is your opinion on micellar water- can i use it instead of washing my face in the morning?
I am not a fan of most of them! It is just surfactants remaining on your skin. I would use a toner instead in the morning, and micellar water to remove makeup, then rinse your face. Hope this helps!:)
If I’m using a moisturizer with broad spectrum sunscreen do I still need to put additional sunscreen on top of that? Thanks!
In theory, no, but what is the SPF of the moisturizer? And how much do you apply?
Great stuff! 5 of your blogs deep lol… I have oily acne prone skin and I’ve recently been implementing oils into my skincare and i’ve noticed it already seems to be helping my skin although as of lately I’ve had small almost milia type bumps on my cheeks. I want to try just washing with water in the morning but is it okay to use a salicylic acid serum in the morning even though it is an exfoliant? 🙂 Thank you!
Hehe, thank you!:) Yes, salicylic can be totally fine in the am if your skin needs it (oily skin often can), just make sure to follow up with a mineral sunscreen.
Thank you so much for getting back!! I switched to oil cleansing with a jojoba based oil cleanser that my friend makes. It has rose and jojoba etc etc i dont exactly remember but its doing very well! My question now is that, ive recently purchased a new concealer. The brand is RMS. Its natural makeup and the first ingredient is coconut oil.. many people swear by coconut oils healing properties for the skin and some even say its acne fighting because of the antibacterial properties.. what do you think about this? I dont want to break out :/
Yes, coconut oil is comedogenic for a lot of people, and RMS concealer has lots of it. There are good chances it will break you out of you are prone to acne:/
I have been giving oil cleansing a try for almost two months now and my skin (which was clear before I started due to using benzoyl peroxide, but I didn’t like how sensitive it made my skin) has been breaking out since about week 2 or 3. Before, I only really had breakouts a week before my period. Am I still going through the purging process or am I doing something wrong or is oil cleansing just not for me? I have combination skin and have been using jojoba oil to cleanse and moisturize at night, then I just rinse with warm water in the mornings.
Hi Jackie! I think oil cleansing isn’t for you or you simply made too sudden a switch to the natural skincare (BP is pretty strong and your skin gets used to it). I recommend trying to oil cleanse with MCT oil instead (make sure it has only capric/caprylic acid) or using a gentle cleanser instead.:)
Thank you so much! I will give the MCT oil a try. Any recommendations for a good gentle cleanser? I checked out your info about what to look for in a cleanser (i.e. pH balanced) and what to make sure isn’t in a cleanser. I started shopping for one and it is a bit daunting!
Hi Jackie! Good to hear that!:) Not sure what to recommend cleanser wise because I don’t know your skin type:/ Mad Hippie creamy cleanser can be nice for dryish skin, while Eminence Organics or Drunken elephant gel cleanser for oily/combo skin!
thank you so much for this info on morning routines! i have a question. what is your routine post work-out? I don’t want to over cleanse my face. Thanks!
I just rinse my face with cold or lukewarm water when I am done (as soon as I am done sweating:)) and that’s it!:)
Hi sara, sorry if i dont understand something here, the instanatural toner that you suggested got salyclic acid in the ingredients, isnt that a surfactant? Wouldnt it disrupts the ‘glue’ in the skin barrier? Pls enlighten me tq 🙂
Hi dear! No, salicylic is an exfoliant, and in this toner it is in very low concentration. Hope this helps!:)
Hi Sara,
would you have any recommendations for a PH balanced cleanser for aging combination skin?
Thank you,
Jackie
Dear Sara, could you please tell how exactly do you clean with honey? You said that sometimes you use just honey to clean at night. So, if Im not wearing any make up or SPF could I just cleanse with honey as my only cleanser? Do you apply it on dry or wet skin? You just rinse it with water? Thank you in advance! Cheers! 🙂
Hi dear! Yes use it if you don’t need to clean off any makeup or SPF. Apply on dry skin, leave for 1 min then rinse with lukewarm water:)
I’m 17 and have a combination skin but I had acne for a long time … Finally it’s gone but left scars which I can’t get rid of … I fash my face three times a day to keep it clean and that made me have less breakout than before and cleared up my acne too.. but I use very gentle face wash (Himalaya neem face wash ) during morning and night and dove soap in the afternoon. I started use sesame oil and castor oil on my face and nivea light moisturizer.. during the night I use my homemade vitamin c serum which has vitamin e too.
Hi. I am so happy i found your blog! It has changed my whole view on skincare. I want to buy your personalized protocal course when i get enough money. But how does it work? Do i send picture of my skin and you can recommend products and regime to follow?
I bought hemp seed oil immediately when i read your blog, but it dried my skin out more. I am confused about my skin, cause skin Therapist in the past said i have combination skin. I feel my skin starts to shine very easy and its FULL of black heads and BIG pores, that get worse and worse with my age (30). But i dont feel like oily skin type cause my skin is always flaking from the pores, and fex. when i put foundation on, it always look flaky (like dry), is so strange and difficult skin.
Should i buy grape seed oil instead of hemp seed? Or should i use argan oil for more moisture? But will argan oil help as much with black heads as hemp and grape oil? Hope to get answer😊